Emails from India, 2004: A Journal of Paul
McLaughlin’s Travels
Subject:
Greetings from Hampi!
Date:
Dear
Friends,
Greetings from
My
flight to
The
delay in my initial departure actually put me onto another flight with several
of my friends on the
This
allowed for an easy passage from
I
spent a powerful ten days in Penukonda doing meditation and mantra practice
with a delightful community of practitioners in a beautiful compound surrounded
by hills studded with huge granite boulders and the ruins of ancient temples
and battlements.
Today
I arrived in the Hampi area.
Hampi
is the home of Hanuman the Monkey God of Hindu mythology and the kingdom of
monkeys who aided Ram in the epic story of the Ramayana.
The
area is studded with huge granite boulders many of which have been carved into
beautiful sculptures. The area is rich with temples, caves, fortresses,
history, mystery, and is full of Shakti power.
I
look forward to the explorations the morning will bring.
I
am currently traveling with a young German couple I met in Penukonda. I am
enjoying also seeing
Today
the theme of our discussions was ways to keep yourself young (the young woman
wants to continue to look 24). Meditation, a good diet and exercise were
obvious elements of youthfulness.
Youthful companions,
laughter, adventure, and a positive outlook on
life also played into the discussion and the experience.
I
am grateful for this wonderful opportunity for adventure. I am also grateful
for good friends, both here in
I
will keep you updated on my adventures.
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject
The Rhythm of Hampi
Date:
Dear
Friends,
I
have enjoyed spending the last five days moving into the rhythm of Hampi.
I
arise each morning before dawn to enjoy a walk in the cool night air to some
promontory where I can enjoy a meditation and some sun salutation exercises to
welcome in the new day. The rugged landscape of granite boulder hillsides and
lush banana/rice patty valley bottoms is at its scenic best in the crisp
lighting of dawn.
I
return to my guest house to do some additional yoga postures and enjoy a chai
and breakfast as the Bazaar of Hampi gradually awakens.
The
last three days, I have rented a bicycle (for about $1 a day) to explore the
extensive ruins on the ancient city of
The
ruins of fortified walls, palaces and temples are constructed of huge granite
blocks, many ornately carved, which were quarried and sculpted in place and
then skillfully assembled to create multi-storied, intricate buildings. The
carvings that adorn the walls tell rich stories of kings and queens, gods and
goddesses, and the daily life of this ancient city.
I
settle into the cool shade of these monuments to escape the mid day heat and to
meditate in the rich vibration of ancient places of devotion.
A
number of the temples remain active places of worship. We have made friends
with many of the keepers and holy men who are amused by these westerners who
share practices and contemplation with them. I am honored by their hospitality
and genuine curiosity.
I
again find a high spot to enjoy the long shadows and colorful sunsets that
grace the evenings here.
Then,
I drop back down to the Hampi Bazaar for a simple, tasty meal on the roof of
our guest house or at a nearby restaurant where we share stories of our day and
talk with the owners, learning of their lives and dreams.
In
the cool of the night, I gaze at the star draped heavens and greet familiar
constellations twinkling overhead.
The
stars remind me of you, my friends, who are still present and dear to me even
when I am half a world away. I send my greetings
and my love.
Sleep
comes quickly and deeply after a day of exploration and exercise. I drop off
peacefully to rest and to awaken fresh for another new day.
On
Thursday we will head on to
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Re: Bolo Ma
Date: Thu,
Dear
PJ,
Thanks
for your note.
Actually
just yesterday I was moved to sponsor a month of 24 hour kirtan at the
Malyventa temple in Hampi starting March 7th for a little over $20. The event
will continue for at least one year.
I
told them of our kindred love of kirtan and took the liberty to make it a group
offering from the Bay Area Sangha/Kula.
If
any of you would like to contribute to a "kirtan benevolence fund"
via David of Yoga of Sausalito while I am in
Blessings,
my heart is with you.
Jai
Ma!
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Riding the Waves
Date:
If
you are squeamish about bodily functions or only want to read airbrushed travel
stories go no further...
I
first began to feel a little fever and headache in Hampi a few days ago. Also
my digestion felt a little sluggish. I honored the fever by slowing down a bit
on my last day in Hampi. I ignored my digestive signals and continued to power
down large quantities of food including a late night bonus meal at the train
station on the way back to
By
the time the overnight train ride was over, I had lost my voice and my
digestive system was starting to plug up. I ate a late and unsatisfying dinner
with Thomas and Joyce and then went back to my room and scarfed down a few
infamous Indian packaged cookies (pineapple creme)...this was my downfall.
A
few hours later, I awoke feeling bloated and nauseous. A good vomit at the time
would have served me (both served me right and brought some relief), but
instead I silently moaned through the night. I also experienced a spontaneous
nose bleed that added an elegant touch of respiratory discomfort to the
situation.
In
the morning we headed to the train station and began a four hour train ride.
The train ride was a strong practice on inner quiet in the midst of digestive
discomfort. At one point, I staggered to the train toilet close to passing out
and ready to explode through both ends.
Fortunately,
just squatting there Indian style with a gentle pressure on the belly (modified
fetal position) allowed the light headedness and nausea to pass.
We
transferred to a jam-packed bus with blasting Bollywood music at
The
bus ride was an amusing blend of acute bodily discomfort and steadily growing
internal bliss as we neared the completion of a journey halfway around the
globe. All my senses were on full overload: Blaring music, bright colors and
lights as the bus barreled through the afternoon countryside; the afternoon
heat glaring off the pavement giving the sweat glands a good workout; a rich
olfactory blend of fecal material, body odors and diesel smoke; and the stale
metallic taste of nausea on my tongue. I am fairly immune to motion sickness,
but this ride was an Olympic workout for the inner ears as well.
By
the time we reached the Tiruvannamalai bus stand I was physically spanked and
glowing with inner delight.
I
staggered off the bus and Thomas gallantly headed off to find us a place to
stay while I collapsed in the shade with our luggage...
As
I gratefully crawled onto my bed a little while later, I quietly cried. Mostly
I cried in gratitude for Thomas and all the other people and events that had
allowed me to make this journey and supported me on the way. I also cried from
sheer exhaustion and the merciful end of so many hours of focused effort. I
felt happy and peaceful. I slept for about 36 hours.
The
sleeping and fasting did me a lot of good. Hopefully I have learned my lesson
with overtaxing the digestive system.
I
have recovered quickly.
Tomorrow
I plan to make the pilgrims ascent of Arunachala. We will also circumambulate
the mountain and spend several days enjoying the peaceful majestic power of
this location. I have already met many wonderful people here. It is a magical
spot!
I
am growing in inner serenity and strength with each experience. Of course I
prefer the easy blissful parts, but I am grateful for the hardships as
well.
I
wish you all a rich (and gentle journey).
Yours in renewed health.
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
A Tale of Two Cities
Date:
Greetings
from
I
am spending the month of March in two cities that are both "Yoga
Centers" in the South of India, but are different in so many interesting
ways.
Thiruvannamalai
is a small town at the base of the holy mountain Arunachala where legend has it
that the Hindu God Shiva once displayed his power by becoming a vast pillar of
fire that reached endlessly down into the earth and upward into the sky.
Arunachala has also been the home of many Hindu saints, including Ramana
Maharshi, who lived here during the first half of the Twentieth century.
The
presence of the Mountain, Shiva, and Ramana Maharshi is still quite palpable.
The mind easily becomes still and focused in this place, making it an auspicious
place for meditation and reflection.
My
time in Thiruvannamalai flowed with the rhythms of the day and involved much
time meditating in the Ramana Ashram and in two caves located partway up the mountain.
I also climbed the mountain twice (yep, the top is charred) and once made the
14km "Pradakshana" (circumambulation) around the mountain on the
occasion of the March full moon in the company of 100,000's of Indians who
arrived in this small town to make this auspicious pilgrimage.
Many
of the buildings in
Many
of the people who come to Arunachala to meditate emulate the practice of Ramana
Maharshi which focuses on a deep inquiry into the nature of the sense of
"I" with long hours of meditative quiet and stillness. This is a
wisdom/enquiry path in which the body is often somewhat neglected and people
tend to float slightly above the surface of the earth with clear but distant
gazes.
The
rural and deeply contemplative yoga of Thiruvannamalai stands in dramatic
contrast to the distinctly urban and strongly physical yoga practice of the
Ashtanga Yoga community of
The
Ashtanga yoga system (that's Ashtanga with the capital A and a trademark)
involves a vigorous program of flowing yoga postures linked by a conscious
meditative use of the breath. This practice has attracted a young, athletic
community of westerners who often spend several months at a time here in Mysore
getting there butts kicked, refining their postures, playing together and
actively enjoying life.
I
have met several people here that I know from Yoga workshops in
I
deeply enjoy both aspects of the yogic path as they are so graphically
displayed in the contrast of these two cities. Diving deeply into the true
nature of the Self and celebrating life through healthy, active and aware
embodiment are both essential parts of the yoga experience for me.
My
traveling companion Thomas from
Thanks
to all of you who have written. I appreciate your kind and entertaining words.
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject
"Buddha Fields"
Date:
Greetings,
I
have found a nice rhythm of practice in
The
practice is followed by a leisurely breakfast and socializing at the nearby
Yoga Mandala. I use the morning hours to do necessary errands or explore
By
By
Later
in the evening I spend some time alone in meditation and then turn in early to
rest for the new day.
In
the Ashtanga practice, one practices six days a week and rests on the seventh
day (yoga Sabbath?). I took advantage of this "day of rest" on
Saturday to visit the Tibetan refugee settlements in Bylakuppe, about three
hours by bus away from
What
an amazing place!
Lilliana,
a friend who had visited the settlements previously was my guide. She was very
helpful in navigating the local bus system and knowing where to stay in the
settlements.
We
left early Friday afternoon and arrived at Sera Jay Monastery in the cooling
shadows of the early evening. We checked into our clean, neat and very
inexpensive rooms at a nearby guest house. We freshened up before enjoying a
simple Tibetan dinner and an evening of colorful Tibetan debate, chanting and
meditation.
Westerners
are officially not encouraged to visit these settlements. In practice we were
greeted with sweet smiles, curiosity and kindness. At the same time we were
largely left alone as if we were benevolent spirits wandering the hallways of
the Monastery.
It
was actually quite nice to be simple witnesses to the beautiful spiritual
practices of the monks.
There
are several different monasteries housing thousands of monks and nuns of
several different Tibetan lineages in the Bylakuppe area. The land was gifted
to the Tibetans by the Indian Governments to use for refugee settlement.
The
Tibetans have used amazing creativity, industry and organizational skills to
create an amazingly vibrant Utopian community. The settlements are well
constructed using an interesting mix of Indian, Tibetan, and Western
architecture to build villages that are clean, efficient and utilitarian and at
the same time stunningly beautiful.
The
temples are amazing pieces of contemporary architecture mixing the majesty of
classical Tibetan temple architecture with modern materials and building design
to produce economical and yet truly grand and inspiring places of inspiration.
The murals and statues are stunningly beautiful!
Of
course the most amazing part of these communities is the Tibetans themselves. The
communities, which are a mix of lay people and monastics, are places of
industry, cooperation, and serenity.
The
Tibetans in the settlements are healthy, well educated, beautiful and happy
people. What an amazing situation in a refugee center that still continues to
receive a steady trickle of new settlers escaping the continuing repression in
The
peacefulness of place was delicious, especially in contrast to the noise and
confusion of
I
was deeply touched by the experience. This is spiritual practice made manifest.
In the Buddhist texts they talk of heaven realms, called Buddha Fields, which
can be experienced through the accumulation of spiritual merit.
Here
at Bylakuppe, I was privileged to visit a Buddha Field; a place where material
welfare and rich community were the direct and obvious fruit of spiritual
practice. A place where the rich spiritual teachings of
I
returned to
How
can I use what I witnessed at Bylakuppe to bring spiritual practice into the
world in a practical way? What is my relationship to Tibetan Buddhism, Yoga,
and the genuine heart of all spiritual practices throughout the world?
I
am grateful to have the time and resources to dive deeply into this inquiry.
I
am grateful for the vision and all that supports me in this journey.
May
you be happy and healthy,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Club
Date:
Greetings,
I
am currently in the railway station in
I
had a very enjoyable time enjoying both the rich Indian culture and the vibrant
western Ashtanga yogi community in
Patabhi
Jois still guides the practice in
A
whole western yogi support economy has developed in
There
are also lots of social gatherings and opportunities to explore the surrounding
region on Saturdays, when Ashtanga Yogis in
Since
I am on more of a basic India budget this trip I haven't taken full advantage
of all the offerings Mysore has to offer, but I have splurged somewhat to take
advantage of unique learning opportunities and to enjoy the good life Mysore
has to offer.
I
have taken on the Ashtanga practice during my stay here. I start with a daily
1.5 to 2 hour sunrise yoga session on the roof top of my (modest)
accommodations. I have also taken a few classes to get some pointers and
assistance in some of the more challenging poses. The past few days I upped the
ante by getting up at
I
have sampled much of the great food offerings available in
I
have also had the opportunity to practice harmonium and sing kirtan here with a
friend from the Bay Area.
I
have also splurged to go to the pool a couple of times. What a difference it
makes to spend the hottest part of the day swimming, reading and socializing in
the shade by the pool.
I
have also joined others for several interesting traditional cultural events and
some amusing western social gatherings.
In general, I have met many new friends and had a great time at
"Club Mysore".
Now
I am off to Rishikesh for some more (and more traditional) yoga learning and
practice opportunities. The cool
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Shri Rishikesh
Date:
Greetings
from Rishikesh!
I
arrived in Rishikesh on the morning of April 3rd after a 72 hour marathon train
ride from
Besides
sharing an evening of delightful conversation, Rabhoo also assisted me by
purchasing an extension train ticket for me and arranging transportation for an
expeditious and hassle free ride to the Ved Niketan Ashram in Rishikesh.
Rishikesh,
("the home of the Rishis" or holy ones) is located where the holy
The
Ved Niketan is where Dana and I spent a delightful month in study and practice
when I was last in
It
is a place where traditional yogic renunciates (sadhus), Indian middle class
pilgrims, scruffy spiritually curious westerners and the ashram cow all rub
shoulders in the Spartan but peaceful courtyard of the ashram grounds.
Here,
I paid my respects to Swami Dharmananda who had given Dana and me an excellent
"Introduction to Yoga Philosophy" during our previous stay here. I
also had an informal audience with Shri Vishwaguru, the founder of this ashram;
solemn, be-speckled and still as tough as nails, who is now likely over 100
years old.
Even
Sanjay, the young office manager was still there, he remembered me and gave me
a choice single room with attached bath in the courtyard for 70 Rupees (about
$1.50) a night.
I
would have been delighted to spend several weeks here doing my practices and
relaxing in the low key, simple, funky, and peaceful cloister, but fate had
other plans...
I
arrived at the Swami Rama Sadhana Grama (SRSG) Ashram on April 4th after a
scavenger hunt journey through the bowels Rishikesh.
The
newly built ashram campus is located in a lovely rural setting just south of
Rishikesh with excellent views of the Himalayan Foothills and Forests rising to
the North and East. The Ashram accommodations are quite comfortable, even by
western standards, and the grounds are planted with healthy lawns and copious
quantities of wildflowers. This "5-Star" Ashram and its brilliant and
renowned teacher, Swami Veda Bharati, attract a strong following of affluent,
well-educated Indian and Western students.
Swami
Veda, who speaks something like 17 different languages fluently, is a
recognized scholar of classical yoga texts and speaks with the authority of one
who has also applied himself whole heartedly to yogic practice and realization
for almost all of his 70+ years.
The
center is associated with the Himalayan Institute, an organization founded by
Swami Rama, Swami Veda's predecessor, in the 70's based on the ancient
Himalayan raja (royal) yoga tradition which now has many centers worldwide.
My
time at SRSG has been very full and very fascinating. The Ashram offers a rich
variety of courses in a variety of topics including yoga philosophy, Sanskrit,
Ayurveda (traditional Indian medicine), and classical singing. The center also
has a strong tradition of practice and realization which infuses the coursework
and which fills the day with a well rounded program of study and practice.
I
am delighted and grateful to be here. I am fully challenged to step onto this fast
train of yogic practice in one of the most auspicious places on Earth.
I
have made many rich connections with the community here, both Indians and
Westerners and have taken the first steps in formally becoming a student in
this lineage.
SRGS
has recently begun a multi-year program of study and practice (the Gurukulum
Study Program) for a small number of students studying directly with Swami Veda
and an all star cast of teachers. I have been honored to be invited to join
this program which will resume after Swami Veda returns from his
2004 world tour in October.
If
I join this program, I will likely be spending a good portion of the next few
years studying and practicing with Swami Veda and the Gurukulum in Rishikesh.
Tomorrow,
I will be heading off with a few friends from the ashram to Turkeswar, a
primitive temple/retreat located in a ridge top evergreen forest at about
8,000ft in the
I
will check my email and send another dispatch when I return to Rishikesh,
likely in about two weeks.
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Entering the Sacred Grove
Date:
Greetings,
One
day, while staying at the Swami Rama Ashram in Rishikesh, I expressed my
interest in practicing meditation in a traditional Himalayan retreat to one of
the staff members. They immediately responded by saying "Oh, you simply
must visit Tarkeswar!" Later that same day, I met Swami Hari who manages
the ashram at Tarkeswar and requested permission to stay there. He agreed, and
soon a small group of Swami Veda's assistants also were inspired to go to
Tarkeswar, following Swami Vedas departure for
So,
early (
Higher,
we entered a mixed
After
several hours, we traversed to the north-facing side of one of the highest
ridges in the area and reached the road head at the edge of a lovely grove of
Deodar Cedar trees. The grove is located in a well watered, north-facing swale
with a thick mantle of fertile soil. The Deodar Cedars, which grow straight and
tall with a luxuriant canopy remind me of a mix of a Douglas Fir and a Coastal
Redwood tree; tall, graceful and majestic. The effect of an entire grove of
these trees is quietly breathtaking.
I
experienced the hushed reverence and natural majesty I have sometimes felt in
special natural areas such as the Big Basin Redwood groves, ancient forests in
the
In
addition, the Tarkeswar grove is the site of an ancient Shiva temple which has
been the home of saints and holy renunciates for hundreds of years. The combination of its great natural beauty
and spiritual energy makes Tarkeswar a place of exceptional magic.
I
immediately began to calm and become internally quiet in this sacred grove, and
over the next 10 days I steadily grew more tranquil, clear and content,
absorbing the cool, deep green beauty of this place. I also enjoyed roaming the
adjacent ridge tops experiencing the scenic expansiveness of forested ridges,
terraced hillsides and valleys stretching off into the distance.
On
our first night here we were also treated to a pyrotechnic display as the
hillsides around the grove were lit up with ground fires as the local villagers
performed their annual pre-monsoon burning to promote a healthy crop of grasses
for summer and fall grazing.
As
a resource manager, I was interested and amused at how such a large scale
program of prescribed fire is conducted using a few matches and some energetic
villagers. Such a program in the U.S
would involve an army of firefighters, lots of high tech weather and
surveillance equipment, massive liability concerns and millions of dollars in
investment.
There
is much to be mourned in the conversion of Himalayan forests to grazing and
agriculture, but in this incidence, it is simply amazing to witness so much
understory vegetation being removed with fire with almost no mortality to the
forest canopy.
One
unfortunate side effect of this regional burning program is that long distance
visibility was seriously impaired, so I could only see the vague outlines of
the snowy high Himalayan peaks on the horizon.
Under clear conditions, the ridge tops just above Tarkeswar provide
stunning views of the high Himalayan peaks including majestic Nanda Devi rising
over 26,000 feet into the heavens.
Meditation
is greatly enhanced in this powerful mountain grove. The mind naturally quiets
and Presence is so tangible that the normal effort to meditate is not required, one instead is simply "meditated" by the
powerful environment. Gradually my need for sleep decreased. Sitting in the
Shiva temple, surrounded by the silent grove in the wee hours of the night
brought great peace and contentment.
The
grove is also a refuge for wildlife. A rich variety of birds frequent the grove
filling the air with music. Tigers also (rarely) roam these mountains adding
spice to the frequent forays I made into the surrounding mountains.
I
feel blessed to be here, blessed to be among into the Himalayan yogis, and
strongly drawn to venture more deeply into the Shiva energy of the high
Himalayas and the caves, the sages, and the revelations that await there.
I
am now back in Rishikesh for a few days. I will likely
be heading up into the high peaks at the headwaters of the
I
will keep in touch when I can.
Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
Detour to
Date:
Greetings
from
Shortly
after returning to Rishikesh from Tarkeshwar, I received an email reporting
that my friend Eric Biggs had suffered a fractured neck from a fall in
Dharamsala.
At
the time I received the email he had been evacuated to
I
headed off to
I
arrived in
I
was greeted by Eric's father, Ralph Biggs and his brother Kevan Biggs who had
flown in from the
Eric
was remarkably clear and calm when I first saw him in the hospital. Even though
he had suffered a major injury and had already been through several days of
painful and exasperating transport and treatment, Eric was in good spirits and
welcomed me warmly.
Eric
still had a considerable degree of paralysis following his accident so frequent
assistance was required.
I
immediately joined his "treatment team". Eric was attended by
numerous medical specialists, and nurses at the Apollo hospital, which is one
of
They
did a good job of attending to his medical needs and they could generally all
speak English, but there was still a significant cultural and language barrier
which prevented Eric from communicating clearly and easily with the hospital staff.
So,
one of my primary tasks was to serve as a bedside translator for Eric,
conveying his information and requests to the medical staff and translating the
medical staff's questions and information into a form that was easily
understood by Eric.
This
proved to be a great exercise in concentration, patience and attunement. My
background in emergency medicine and the intricacies of Indian accents and
expressions came in handy in this "translation" work.
I
joined in to help move Eric in the hospital bed when required. I spent many
hours talking and meditating with Eric. I also enjoyed giving Eric some simple
body work to relieve some of his discomfort.
What
was most rewarding though, was simply being with Eric
and his family and friends, sharing our love and concern for Eric and each
other in such a clear, supportive and intimate way. It is times like these that
bring out the best in people, and help us all to appreciate our loved ones and
all the gifts we have in this life.
Eric
showed considerable improvement in his sensory and motor function during the
nine days I attended him in
Eric
did have one period when a sodium imbalance led to a reduction in consciousness,
disorientation and restlessness. Our team spent several intense hours gently
holding Eric and talking with him to calm him and keep him from hurting
himself. This was the period in which the language barrier was most pronounced.
Whenever a nurse or doctor would directly ask Eric if he were all right, he
would still himself and answer that he was "fine". The doctor or
nurse would turn away thinking Eric was just fine and we were being neurotic,
and a few seconds later, Eric would return to his restless and confused state.
Eric's
brother Kevan deserves an Emmy Award for his calm and persistent communication
during this period which brought Eric back to stillness and lucidity for a few
second at a time, for hundreds of times, over a period of three or four hours.
Eventually
the doctors did realize the seriousness of the situation and they intervened
slowly but effectively to correct the metabolic imbalance.
Last
night, Eric left for
It
was very interesting and amusing to experience the contrast between a forested
temple in the
This
was a prime opportunity to notice that quality of awareness that is unchanging
in the midst of change; the calm and intelligent witnessing consciousness that
is most easily experienced in formal meditation, but is always present,
awaiting our notice and attunement.
And
to notice the love that spontaneously arises when someone is in need and we are
able to respond.
I
am grateful for the experience.
Please
join me in praying for Eric's steady and complete recovery.
Tonight,
I head back to Rishikesh and the
Love
and Blessings,
Paul
=======================================================================================
Subject:
The High
Date: Thu,
Greetings
from the
I
just returned to Rishikesh after a couple of delicious weeks in the high
The
trip up to Badrinath from Rishikesh was scenic, terrifying and exhausting. I
took a total of two days to complete the 12 hour ride on narrow, winding
mountain roads in jam packed "share-jeep" vehicles.
All
the official "rules of the road" are regularly ignored.
Everyone
uses their horn almost constantly as they race around the corners and each
other. The drivers are skilled at passing each other with literally inches to
spare. The drivers generally cooperate with each other magnificently in these
"reckless" passes.
Horns
are used here not so much as an expression of anger, rather, they are simply
the way Indian drivers say "I am here". Honking your horn is an act
of courtesy actually. A vehicle without a functioning horn would be a grossly
unsafe vehicle in
The
secret of being a content passenger in
The
scenery becomes progressively more majestic as the drive toward the sources of
the
Near
the end of the journey, the geology shifts from ocean sediments to more erosion
resistant granite and evidence of glaciation is present in the huge precipitous
canyons with hanging waterfalls and pointy peaks. These gorges are on a scale
unique to the
The
final stretch into Badrinath is truly breathtaking, inspiring and amazing. Just
as the road reaches Badrinath the river gorge opens into a broader
"U-shaped" valley at over 3000 meters (10,000 ft) elevation.
Even
with the inspiring scenery along the way, I was grateful to finally reach
Badrinath and become a full time pedestrian for a few days.
I
wandered though the streets and alleyways of Badrinath for about an hour. I
found a simple dhaba (cafe) at which I enjoyed a simple breakfast of paratha (fry
bread) and chai (milk tea). I then spent a while visiting some of the hotels
and guest houses, finally negotiating a fair price for a clean and simple room.
After
cleaning up and organizing my room I felt refreshed and energized. I packed a
small bag and headed for the ancient Buddhist settlement of Mana at the end of
the road 5 km beyond Badrinath.
I
enjoyed the walk in the crisp clear mountain air. The valley north of Badrinath
opens even more with glacially sculpted granite (granite gneiss) peaks rising
over 3000m on either side. Living glaciers still grace the higher slope and
large ice fields are nestled up the side valleys.
It
took less than an hour to reach Mana and I felt even more energized. I decided
to continue up to
The
gradual climb was taxing on my lungs and legs, accustomed as they were to the
low altitudes and relatively sedentary lifestyle I had been leading in
I
reached the falls by
After
a while, I descended a short distance to a sadhu's (holy man) stone hut where I
enjoyed the hospitality of a cup of chai and struck up a conversation with
"Bobby" an Indian man who is running a fledgling travel business.
Bobby was traveling with an American by the name of Art Lucky who was visiting
the area to prepare for a tour he will be leading here in the fall.
I
enjoyed pleasant conversations with both Art and Bobby as we casually descended
back to Mana.
I
was pleasantly tired that night and slept soundly until around
Bobby
had suggested the day before that I hike a "short distance" up the
valley just west of town.
I
did feel my muscles from the day before on the climb up to the first valley
bench, but once the side valley opened up into a peaceful tundra landscape
covered with close-cropped turf and delicate wildflowers, I was drawn
powerfully upward. The valley consists of a series of steps. My map indicated a
"Tapta Kund" (lake) lying just west of town. Each time I gazed up to
the next step, I thought "perhaps Tapta Kund is just up there", and I
would climb higher.
As
the morning turned to afternoon I continued to climb, eventually reaching above
the flower fields to the raw moraine at the very base of Neelkanth. And higher
still, as far as I could go without venturing onto the steep snow slopes of
Neelkanth itself.
From
here I was blessed with a stunning 360 degree view of Himalayan majesty. Small
avalanches frequently rumbled off the hanging glaciers of Neelkanth. Dozens of
waterfalls that would dwarf